Chablis-esque. Lemon gold in the glass. Rich complexity immediately detected on the nose - aromas of lime juice, lemon pie, rock melon, toast and whiffs of reduction (gunpowder) that blow off quickly. A bloody brilliant old-school Aussie white. Rich with fruit, but super lean and unbelievably fresh for its age. This is why you need to age Vat 1: it can be so low-key, restrained, austere and even underwhelming in its youth, but after more than 10 years in a cellar it starts to open up, becoming more expressive and complex, and softening up - yet retaining its firm acidic backbone. An outstanding display.